Crossing from Panama to Cartagena Colombia

There is lawless strip of land between Panama and Colombia called Darien Gap. There are absolutely  no roads there, only wild jungle. Forbidding mountainous jungle on the Panama side and jungle full of swamps on the Colombian side both infested with guerrillas, drug traffickers and kidnappers.

There are two ways to cross Darien Gap by plane or by boat. Going by boat makes an interesting cruise with two days stopover on San Blas Islands. Absolutely idyllic archipelago close to Panama's shore.

I arrived at Wunderbar hostel to find out that my spot on the boat was already taken. The reason; apparently I didn’t pay my deposit on time and the captain decided to take on someone else. Later on, I found out, Sylvia the Wundebar hostel's owner is looking after all the bookings and this was her doing – not happy at all,  especially I was in contact with her on the daily bases. My remaining option; go on different boat (pictured below) or wait three more days for large motor-sailor Independence. I did some research and found several bad reports. I decided to wait. Later on I learned this was very smart decision. A lot of people had dreadful experience on this boat and its French Captain. This is well documented on the Web.

Many people reported to have bad experience with this boat and its French captain.

On the way to Puerto Lindo.

The road goes often along the coast.

But first visit to Puertbello and its old fort. Many travelers are choosing Puertbello as a base before crossing to Cartagena. There was only one hostel Captain Jacks; overpriced and very average as far as sleeping is concerned. Everything seems to cost more. What really put me off, you have to pay for luggage storage if you happen to knock off from the hostel for a day or two.

Puertobello's old fort in early days protecting entry to the bay against pirates.

Islands offer an excellent protection for yachts.

Good snorkeling spot right from the shore.

This is a private Island just next door to Grand Isla.

I visited the Grand Isla, very popular weekend getaway with locals. There is local population on the island too.

Typical boats used to get to the island.

On the beach with locals on Sunday.

.....and more boats from around the world.

Some low key hotels and restaurants visible in the distance.

View from Grand Isla towards the mainland.

The local Church

I needed a new rear tire for my bike and the GPS. My GPS was stolen in Costa Rica.
Port city Colon has duty free zone. One of the biggest in the world. I wanted Zumo 660 a specialized motorcycle GPS. At first I was told I won’t be able to get one. I may have to go back to Panama City. After some legwork  I found one. The price was right too “only” $600 about the same what I paid for my first unit. The tire cost me $60, unfortunately this was 100% road tire. Panama is a bad place for motorcycle. Not many there.

At Wunderbar hostel  I met a Russian couple accompanied by the Englishman and the Swede.
Most of the time they kept together smoking grass and more.... Pretty Russian girl was an exception. She looked more like an employee. Washing cooking and fetching sandwiches. The Russian, the scary looking guy looked like he is on the mission and could play role in any movie as a mafia man. Later, I learned I wasn’t alone with this assessment. I learned a lot of drugs are passing through Puerto Lindo.

Finally my boat arrived; 26 meter steel motor-sailor Independence with Michel - the Croatian as its captain with all women crew; three pretty Colombian girls.

My bike was placed on the top deck about 4 meters above the water level. Lack of protection to the bikes is the biggest complaint from other riders. Most of the boats are much smaller and the bikes are usually strapped to the rails. All women crew did very impressive job both on the deck and in the kitchen. According to captain women crew is far better but very hard to get. One of the problem with men crew is mutiny and drugs. There were cases when crew murdered its captain and overtook the boat exactly like in pirate times in the 17^th century.


We loaded bikes the day before. There was one more bike ridden by French couple.

Three guys men handled my 220 kg bike

and we are on the way.

The Independence and its crew are waiting for our arrival.

Michel the captain, Mojo, Martha the crew and my KLR

All fixed and ready for four days crossing to Cartagena Colombia.

The next morning nine backpackers joined us. Six from Germany, one Brazilian, one Argentinian and one Polish. All up including us bikers twelve passengers.

We quickly settled in and we are on our way.

On the first day in the early afternoon we reached our first mooring in San Blas. San Blas archipelago made of about 300 islands some as small, there is only room for a single palm. Islands are inhabited by Kuna Indians. They have very little and the tourism is the only mean for their income. They own everything on the island and below the water level. Nothing can be removed from the island without their permission. If you want a coconut you ask for one and preferably pay for it too. 

I chose to sleep on deck in my own hammock - never leave home without one. One of my favorite perks.

The first mooring.

Typical island with Kuna family living right on the water edge.

One of the smaller islands. The reef around it offered very nice snorkeling.

In the late afternoon sun.

..... and the Caribbean sunset.

The next morning we visited near by islands and did some snorkeling.

Palms grew right to the water edge.

These men wanted to sell us some seafood.

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Typical Kuna hut built right on the water edge.

Marcio the Brasilian

 Kuna lady in her traditional clothing.

 Krzysztof looking for place for snorkeling.

The Ladder.

On the mission.

More boats visiting the islands.

We are teaching this cute local girl how to swim.

Kuna men coming back from the fishing trip.

Mid morning we sailed to our second location on the San Blas archipelago.

.............................

On the way.

The storm started to brew.

There were clouds on the horizon but the weather remained good. We moved to our final destination on the San Blas archipelago.

 The Stahlratte the biggest boat crossing between Panama and Cartagena. Very popular with bikers.

This kite made me really jealous I wished I had my gear with me.

Spot the Monkey.

It appears, Kuna tried to make dugout canoe out of this trunk.

 Marcio y Yo

 Girls making the best of it.

 This Kuna family wanted to buy some petrol from us.

We bought crayfish and crabs from Kuna Indians and had a feast later that evening.

Fernando in the commanding role.

The feast was followed by party. The captain provided some white and red wine. The Colombian girls showed us how to dance Salsa. I had a go but I definitely need more practice but heeyy.... I just about to enter Colombia. If I won't learn there. I never will.

Girls showing us some fancy moves.

This is serious. Martha is from Cali were salsa started and I am, just another hopeful.

The final crossing took us about 22 hours in rough seas. We were mostly motoring with sails rigged to smooth out the ride. We had two storms on the way. Lucky we were on larger boat. Some on smaller boats had miserable time with their bikes constantly washed with sea water. Finally we reached Cartagena. 

This fort in early days protected the entry to Cartagena.

Cartagena in the distance.

And we unloaded our bikes.

BMW is first just to test if the boat can take the load - the captain is happy.

Next my bike - Krzysztof and Sasha helping to unload it.

 Cartagena within the reach.

Happy family just before disembarking. Whose shoes are these?

I would recommend hands down the Yacht Independence and its crew.