Very picturesque ride to Esteli. Esteli is a major market town in the area with some spectacular mountain rides around. Unfortunately recent downpours created many landslides and many roads became impassable. After spending one night in Esteli I continued to one of prime surf location in Nicaragua San Juan Del Sur.
The foreshore was lined up with fine restaurant. For around $8 I was served with fish the size I thought was not possible to eat in one go. Nicaragua the cheapest country so far. A couple fine night clubs served bear for just under 1$ and drinks $2 each. I made San Juan del Sur my base to visit several attraction in the area. Next day Granada, the finest colonial city in Nicaragua.
But first Catarina and Laguna de Apoyo.
Laguna the Apoyo is an ancient volcano's crater lake.
In Granada I met Frank. Australian from Sydney. He gave me a bit of a scare. A left my bike on the main square.
After I had my dinner and just before I got back to my bike he stopped me and asked about my bike. Immediately I thought something bad happened to it. Fortunately, all was OK. He was riding alone and wanted some company to continue his ride to Panama. Unfortunately I wanted to visit Ometepe island the next day. We will meet again in Puerto Lindo Panama.
Granada's main square with the cathedral on one end.
The wedding right on the street.
Next day when I arrived at port terminal to get a ferry to Ometape island I learned my bike is too big and I have to wait for larger ferry. I waited for four hours.
I was told to wait until cars and trucks board the ferry first. I was ready to board when suddenly local guy on the motorcycle jumped the queue and boarded just in front of me. I was told by port authority there is no room for my bike. Fortunately ferry's crew was very friendly. They moved things around, so I could just fit in.
Arriving at Ometape Island. It took one hour to cross.
Ometape island on the lake Nicaragua is about an hour ride from the mainland. The island was created by the eruption of two volcanoes: Conception and smaller Madera. Fresh water sharks live in the lake. The only known fresh water shark species in the world. This hints Lake Nicaragua was once connected with ocean or part of it. Now the lake is landlocked.
Volcano Madera
My first day on the island. It was getting dark. I needed place to camp. I asked in one of the resorts I passed for permission to camp.
Permission granted.
It rained heavily overnight. This made my ride even more interesting.
Lake's water was clear but beach is black made of volcanic sand.
Water level was high.
View from the mainland.
The next day I caught ferry back to the mainland and after spending one night in Juan del Sur I continued my journey to Costa Rica border.
But first I had my drive chain replaced. To cut the chain they used this home made grinder fixed to a table.......
...and I had my bike professionally cleaned.
The border between Nicaragua and Costa Rica was very time consuming. It took me about three hours. A lot of running around: getting stamp here and there. No major problems though.
At the border crossing I met two Canadian riders; Steven and Andrew both on Kawasaki KLR 650s. Finally I met some riders going the same direction. They likewise wanted to visit Costa Rica on the Caribbean Coast.
At the border crossing I met two Canadian riders; Steven and Andrew both on Kawasaki KLR 650s. Finally I met some riders going the same direction. They likewise wanted to visit Costa Rica on the Caribbean Coast.
Andrew and Steven
Some spectacular views on the way.
....and more
Laguna the Arenal - Costa Rica
Laguna the Arenal - Costa Rica #2
We decided to go off road.
Not always upright.
Crossing deep paddle:
Washing our bikes
These workers were puzzled why these Gringos chose this unfinished road......
And back on the bitumen.
The weather got worse. When passing through capital of Costa Rica San Jose it was raining nearly continually. Late evening we descended to town Guapiles. We found a hotel - fairly expensive.
The manager assured us, they have very good security. All is gated and the security guard is on site.
The next morning it continued to rain. After short wait we decided to ride on to our next destination - Puerto Viejo on the Caribbean Coast . Suddenly I noticed something strange it appeared something was missing. The manager assured us, they have very good security. All is gated and the security guard is on site.
My GPS Zumo 660 with Tura-Tech security cradle was gone. Thieves used bolt cutters to steal it. To add to the injury they stole control unit for my Scottoiler. Absolutely useless to them.
That much said about hotel's security.
Puerto Viejo very nice town, backpacker friendly. The rain stopped and we could enjoy it for a couple of days.
Puerto Viejo main street.
Everyone wanted to have a photo here.
The winning shot.
We would stay longer. We really liked Puerto Viejo but Costa Rica is very finely tuned to take all the money from unsuspecting tourists. We decided to ride on and cross to Panama.
We found an excellent camp site shortly before the border.
With some attractions
........
Infamous bridge border crossing in Sixaola.
This was the most painful crossing until now. It took us about three hours with some major stuff up which will haunt us later in our journey. There was a moment when border official took Andrew’s passport put it aside and started to read a newspaper... with Andrew standing and staring at him.....
Quite scary with fully loaded bike.
Andrew and Steve wanted to make their diving certification on Boca del Tores islands. We arrived at the ferry terminal later that day. The ferry already left. The next ferry leaves for Boca's 8 am the next morning. We had some difficulties to find secure place for our bikes. We decided to ride on.
...on our way again.
Spectacular views of Bocas Del Toro.
This mountain road was excellent.
One of the waterfalls.
More spectacular views.
We arrived at Playa Las Lajas on Panamas Pacific coast.
No comments.
Initially we wanted to stay here for the night but Steven’s bike started to show some problems. The KLR’s infamous Dohey-Key was on the way out. Potentially very dangerous problem. Steven wanted to get to Panama City ASAP to order parts for his bike. After about 30 km we were stopped by the police. They had a road block. Soon after we found out, we are missing Panama's migration stamp. The obvious stuff up by Panama’s border officials. The migration had our passport for about 20 minutes. They even fixed 1$ duty stamps but failed to stamp it – great.
We were ordered to go back to the border were we entered the country about 450 km away. This wasn't an option for Steve. His bike was getting worse. After long negotiation, the police let us go to the closest border crossing about 180km away. There was no guarantee they will stamp our passports. We arrived at the border crossing shortly before the closure. No luck. We needed today's stamp from Costa Rica migration office. We took our chances and walked back to Costa Rica side to have our passports stamped again. Costa Rica's official found Costa Rica’s stamp from the previous day.
He was flicking my passport back and forward for a minute or so and finally without saying a word stamped it. I think he was ready to go home and didn’t want any hard cases. He stamped Steve’s and Andrew’s passports without even looking - all good.
He was flicking my passport back and forward for a minute or so and finally without saying a word stamped it. I think he was ready to go home and didn’t want any hard cases. He stamped Steve’s and Andrew’s passports without even looking - all good.
It was getting dark. We needed to find a hotel really quickly. There was small disagreement between Steven and Andrew; as a result we all got separated. I wasn't able to find any hotel and continued my ride towards Playa Las Lajas about 140km away. About 10 km before I reached Playa Las Lajas I noticed someone is overtaking me. This was Steven. He waited for me at the turn off hoping Andrew was with me. We set up our camp under the palapas and all looked very peaceful until two cars arrived about midnight. They decided to have disco on the beach with their 5KW amplifiers. Very entertaining night.
Camping under the palapas.
We met Andrew the next morning just after the police block. Apparently he camped under the bridge – very romantic.
We continued to Panama City. We were stopped by cops again. Apparently we crossed double line when we were overtaking. They issued us with tickets without any personal details.
30 km before Panama City we took the turn off to a new housing development. We passed it and continued into the jungle. Often the track we followed was so overgrown that hardly visible.
We camped right on the river bank.
We camped right on the river bank.
Setting the camp in the middle of the jungle.
The next morning we continued to Panama City. First on the list Panama Canal.
Bridge over Panama Canal we crossed earlier.
The cost to cross the Panama Canal for this ship is about $1000 000
Panama Canal museum
I was here.
The locks
.....and again the locks
Next Panama City center.
We visited city center. On our way back to the hostel I had an accident. It started to rain very heavily. One of the lanes was flooded. Car in front of me to avoid deep paddle swang to my lane pushing me against the kerb. The only choice I had, it was to ride my bike up the kerb. I narrowly avoided the post and crashed. One of the side cases separated from my bike and ended up on the opposite side of the road facing the incoming traffic. Thankfully no injury but I have to worked out a new system for my luggage. I lost my toolbox too.
‘The Force’ is still with me.
‘The Force’ is still with me.
Deep paddle covering right lane.
Narrowly avoiding the post.
The next morning we separated. I continued my ride to Puerto Lindo to catch my boat to Cartagena Colombia. Andrew and Steven stayed in the hostel awaiting for parts.
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