Three days after leaving Manizales in Colombia I reached Ecuadorian coast near San Lorenzo. I continued my ride south towards Puerto Lopez. I was still on the outscarts of Esmeraldas when suddenly I heard tumbling noise behind me. In my rear view mirror I saw top case dragged behind my bike still attached by strap. As soon as I stopped, two young guys appeared and started chatting to me. I thought, they wanted to help. Silly me, I became suspicious when they split up. The black guy was helping me at back while the other one moved towards the front of my bike. I kept watching him. After few minutes without saying a word they decided enough is enough and started to walk away. Immediately I felt something was wrong. I looked at my luggage and the camera bag attached to handlebars. At first glance all seemed to be OK. After closer look, I noticed my partially broken backup camera was missing. I ran after the thieves. They immediately split up and ran in opposite directions. I followed one for a little while but I couldn't leave my bike unattended, After all not a big loss, except for memory stick which contained nearly all my photos from Colombia.
I continued my ride towards Puerto Lopez where I was going to meet with Jack Livingstone.
But first I stopped in Canoa. I had chance to test my new toy - metal detector. I red on the web, Excalibur II metal detector is quite complex to use. Requires trained ear to recognized various tones. These tones help to distinguish trash from treasure. Despite some teasing problems I was able to find a few dollar coins in my first session. Ecuador is using American currency since Sucre collapsed in year 2000
Canoa beach
Ecuador has another aspect worse to investigate. It is very rich with Pre-Columbian artifacts. After humans crossed Darien Gap from Central to South America about 15 - 20 millions ago they created many advanced cultures. The most famous and most sophisticated were Incas. When Europeans arrived in 15th century Incas empire was spreading from today Argentina to Colombia and east to Amazon. Several other advanced cultures flourished in Pre-Inca era. In Ecuador the most noted are Valdivian and Chorrera.
Puerto Lopez
While still in Colombia I exchanged a few emails with Rob Faruggia. We planned to meet in Ecuador. He just arrived with with his friend John, professional film maker and photographer. John was making a movie about Ecuador and its ancient treasures. We met in the hostel where I was staying.
John & Rob booked in to the same exotic hostel.
First we visited Casa Blanca or rather Casa Blanca river
We searched the river downstream from Casa Blanca village.
We found a lot of broken ceramic but no copper or gold artifacts.
To our advantage the river was low.
We could see exposed layers in the riverbank. Some could be the source for ceramic we found.
We met one local guy selling artifacts to tourists, mostly fakes though. With his father's help we organized trip to another site featuring Valivivian culture.
The site was located on the farmers property.
We failed to find any metal artifacts but Valdivians are known for its ceramic.
We found a lot of ceramic artifacts.
Some smaller one were intact - the whistle on the left and the idol on right.
Next we wanted to visit Coaque near Pedernales, first mentioned by Pizarro, Spanish Conquistador, in his chronicles. He found flourishing culture rich in gold and emeralds.
Our trip was still week and half away. I had plenty of time to practice my metal detecting skills.
After a week or so I came to conclusion, I could support myself just by metal detecting beaches in Ecuador. A found lot of dollar coins but I failed to find any valuable jewelry - probably not enough skills just yet. Very nice hobby in some way reminded me fishing I like.
Puerto Lopez beach where I became pretty popular with locals due to my metal detecting.
Puerto Lopez main street along the beach - spot the metal detecting fella
Finally we set off for Cuaque.
We found accommodation in nearby Pedernales.
After conversation with Jack I was very keen to do some gold prospecting in Ecuador. Especially gold dredging. Gold in Ecuador is very fine, too fine to be detected with metal detector. After four days in Cuaque we decided to leave John and Rob and go back to Puerto Lopez. The following day after arrival, we boarded bus to Zamora in the Orient (Amazon part of Ecuador). In Zamora we met with Stan Girst, self acclaimed gold and treasure expert in Ecuador for Gringos. We visited proposed dredging site. I was a complete novice, hungry for adventure. Jack and Stan both appeared to be experts, with years of experience in the field. They had percentage cut in the deal so I trusted their expertise otherwise why would they waste their time and money. They did brief panning test on the concession and quickly announced; with 8" dredge we can easily get 100 Gram of gold per day. At the time I should have remembered Murphy's laws. Especially the most famous one: 'If it is too good to be true it probably isn't'. To be truthful, adventurer part took over me. I just wanted to do it regardless.
When boarding the bus in Guayaquil on our way back to Puerto Lopez we were targeted by professional thieves. When some members successfully destructed us, the others helped themselves with my laptop and the camera. What makes me especially angry. I was constantly alerted of a danger and constantly watching my gear but despite that I couldn't prevent it. Fortunately I had all my data stored on the external hard disk. I only lost very resent photos.
Soon we organized truck. We loaded our gear, our bikes and set off for an overnight trip to Yantzaza. After arrival we booked in to the hotel and shortly visited local metal workshop where we ordered custom built dredge.
One day prior dredge delivery Jack had motorcycle accident. He broke his leg in two places, really badly. He will be out of action for at least 6 month. Both Jack and Stan were convinced we are going to get tons of gold. They didn't want to miss out on the 'Opportunity of the lifetime'. They called for help. They promised large cut to their friend Paul and convinced him to leave USA to help me. It took about 2 weeks for Paul to arrive.
In the meantime I had to handle everything on my own. The dredge was delivered the next morning. I had to organize divers, security guard, food, build camp etc.
I had access road cleared so truck could get to the river bank.
View of the dredging site. The dredge concession is on the river band on the very RHS.
The dredge needed assembling - It arrived in parts.
All ready to go.
Jack insisted on 24/7 security guard - costly mistake.
With Pedro our security guard.
Couple days passed and it was clear; claims made by Jack and Stan were ridicules to say the least. I could only get about 1 gram of gold per day. I talked to locals and other dredgers in the area. It appeared this site was dredged and excavated for many, many years. It started when 15 years ago large Russian company virtually changed the landscape excavating and bulldozing for gold. A year ago local dredger with 6 dredges spent whole season dredging the river. In addition several excavators were excavating for gold on several occasions. The site was bitten like dead horse.
Obviously Stan Girst "The Expert" didn't do his homework in the first place. He applied for the concession rights without proper site investigation. To add to the injury, Jack with all his
"EXPERIENCE" couldn't see the obvious; the river wasn't suitable for dredging. The water was dirty caused by illegal excavations going on up the river. Both, Jack and Stan were well aware of the excavations because we visited the sites on the day.
I settled in the little village Guadalupe only 6 km away from the dredging site.
My unit was on the first floor overlooking Yacuambi river on one side ...
......and the mountains on the other side.
After few days unsuccessful dredging I decided to stop and wait for Paul to arrive, hoping he will come up with some solutions.
More of Guadalupe
Central Park in Guadalupe.
Bridge to the other site where Catholic Mission is running Eye Clinic. Famous in whole Ecuador.
Foot bridge to the church and the clinic.
The mission is currently run by Austrian priest. His house in the background.
When Paul arrived we did more dredging. He confirmed my worst fear. We are in wrong place. I had some doubts concerning dredge design. I thought Jack's idea didn't work too well and we might be loosing some gold. We decided to change dredge design. We reverted back to classical dredge design. Paul had some idea for new rifle setup.
My friend's Angel's workshop where we converted the dredge.
Angel is building new riffles.
After the conversion we are assembling the dredge.
We both were very pessimistic about the dredging site and didn't want additional expenses of a diver. We decided to work our self to check the site and the new system.
We sampled two different locations.
The work was really hard. It was to much for Paul. He is 68. The results not good either, only about 1.5 gram per day. Not even close to 100 gram promised. Paul was devastated. His mates Jack and Stan promised him a lot off gold. He was broke. He stretched himself financially to buy a ticket to get here. We new we have to look for another dredging site. We look along the river for days. Finally we heard the news. People are having a lot success in Zumba about 250 km away on the Peruvian border.
Off we go to Zumba. Paul on the bus and I am riding my bike.
Beautiful country site
It was shortly after the heavy rain so the road was interesting to say the least.
Paul reported; the bus was sliding sideways. He thought I will never make it.
After arrival in Zumba we settled in the Hotel next to the military base. The presence of military was very visible. Very large contingent. At the petrol station military was recording every transaction noting number plates vehicles involved. I didn't receive any special favors either. They recorded my number plate when I was filling on fuel. Illegal mining and fuel contraband to Peru was the reason. Gasoline in Ecuador is more then 3 times cheaper then the rest of SA excluding Venezuela.
The following day we went for a ride looking for a dredging site.
High in the mountains.
We passed several mountain villages.
On the way we tried to gain some local knowledge regarding dredging in the area.
Some nice easy water crossings.
Peru across the river.
We are at the border crossing
Peruvian border post in the background.
From the bridge we could see dredges on both side of the river.
We moved on.
Every river was a potential site for dredging. We were told, nearly every river has gold.
Paul is checking the view
The ride was spectacular - we just came up on this road.
Bridge in the distance..
..... and the crossing.
After investigation we came to conclusion; Zumba would be very difficult location for dredging. The authorities are very strict. We heard about dredges been confiscated and the fuel is a real problem. There was a possibility to do it legally but we couldn't meet the concession owner. He was out in the field. We took his phone number and decided to contact him when back in Guadalupe.
After spectacular ride we are back in Zumba.
The following day Paul got on the bus and I started to backtrack to Guadalupe.
Shortly after I came across this gold mine.
The mine was closed.
The river nearby was crystal clear - great for dredging.
Soon I was blocked by trucks building the road. The surface was dryer this time.
Some nice rock formation on the way.
The countryside become dryer and dryer.
Despite luck of vegetation the views were spectacular.
I was getting close to Vilcabamba
Villcabamba
Vilcabamba is very popular with expats from USA.
As well, Vilcabamba is very popular destination for backpackers visiting Ecuador.
While at the border I was reminded, my visa expires in less then two weeks. I had to apply for a new one. I had to go to Quito or Ipiales, border town in Colombia. I already extended my visa in Ipiales. I knew consulate is not busy so this can be done in one day.
I decided to ride in the Orient until Puyo and then cross the Andes. 
I carried all my gear in case I have problems obtaining visa extension.
I love riding in the tropics.
In Puyo I stayed in my favorite hostel - Colibri. It has an excellent security for bikers. In the morning I crossed the Andes. I avoided riding through the middle of Quito. I was heading for Ibarra and later for Colombian border town Ipiales. I followed my GPS. I end up riding through very spectacular part of Ecuador. This wasn't the main highway connecting Ibarra and Quito.
At first asphalt.
But soon it turned into dirt. In the end very challenging mountain track.
It was fun with all that gear I was carrying.
I underestimated the time needed to cross the mountains. Very soon day riding became night riding. I reached Ibarra and Juan's Pizzeria about 8 at night, tired but very happy. This was very spectacular ride. Pity, partially I had to ride at night but at least I could see Ibarra's panorama in full night glory high from the mountain tops.
The next day I reached Colombian border town Ipiales to found out that Ecuadorian Consulate can't give me visa extension. Reason, they are only authorized to give tourists visas. I maxed out my tourist visa and have to apply for working visa. Fortunately, I still had a few days remaining before my visa expires. I rode back to Quito and applied for 6 months working visa. There was one week waiting time. I decided to wait in Guayaquil. I left my bike with my friend Carlos and boarded an overnight bus.
10 hours later I arrived in Guayaquil.
Guayaquil 'despite the size 2.5 millions' is one of my favorite destinations in Ecuador. Besides, being the largest city in Ecuador seem a logical place to buy my new laptop.
Zona Rosa - Entertainment area of Quito where incidentally I stayed while there.
On my first visit in Quito I failed to visit La Compania
.... is only opened to the public for few hours every morning. It is famous for its 4 tons of gold
The following day, I am back on my bike heading for Amazon.
Around Quito there are several tourist places marking the Equator. I forgot name of this place.
My bike according to the GPS is right on the Equator
On the way to Amazon I had to cross Andes. Highest point about 4400 m.
Some alpine views
Descending towards Amazon.
.... and soon jungle appeared on both sides of the road.
I was riding through National Park. I stopped here and made short jungle walk.
I stopped here for a lunch.
View from the restaurants's terrace.
I descended to about 1500m - more villages
I was getting close to Tena - Amazon outpost and one of the important gold regions in Ecuador.
There is good chance for Gold here.
A purple church.
Shortly after Maccas I hit this dirt track.
Local kids...
Carrying fuel? or maybe not.
I was very lucky to ride this track. Now the surface is bitumen all the way through.
After Gualquiza I hit bitumen again
Venice in the Orient.
Shortly before Yantzaza - nearly home.
There is no problem for these kids playing on the razor sharp sheet metal. I know a few parents back home who would freak out just on the idea.
After arrival I learned Paul abandoned me. It appeases he got marching orders from Stan and Jack. At first not very pleased. I wrote an email to Stan and asked for explanation. I received rather rude answer "Shit happens in mining, you are now on your own".
Many Americans and Canadians are reading my blog and likely contemplating similar adventure to mine. Beware of this two characters. When you meet them for the first time you think you never met nicer guys in your whole life. Do your homework first and don't rely only on their information. After my time in Ecuador I could write whole paragraph about Ecuadorian gold but I rather summarize it: there is a lot of gold in Ecuador. All easy gold is mostly gone. Authorities trying to limit mining due to gold prices. Most people will tell you they have permit but in real life this is not true. The permit is the collection of many permits and usually one is not granted. Despite what Jack and Stan will tell you, there are a lot of very rich and smart Ecuadorians who stand much better chance to succeed in their own country then any Gringo. I personally met other would be investors who were promised large profits. They invested big time and got abandoned as soon as profits didn't materialized. If the gold is so easy, Stan after more then 20 years in Ecuador and Jack after 5 years should be very rich by now. Why this is not the case??? Enough said.
After initial shock I was actually pleased. I already gained enough experience to continue on my own. Besides I met many locals and become friends with them. My dredge was on dry land and ready for work. First I have to look for a new dredging site. I made many motorcycle trips with Angel looking for a new site.
Briefly, I had my dredge working here but results were not satisfactory. I had to look for another spot.
Near by San Antonio village - very popular with dredgers.
This was very good spot for many years. People still working here but the results are not as good.
This is what I was often facing - dirty water.
The reason - illegal excavators working up the river. This was very risky business. Unannounced military could show up at any time and confiscate $200 000 worth excavator or worst: blow it up or burn with phosphor. This happened many times while I was living there. Potential rewards were so high that many were prepared to take that risk. A lot of corruption. Often excavator owners had prearrangement with the police and military but this was never full proof.
Source of dirty water.
The excavator did a couple flips in the river and end up on the other side.
The river views are breathtaking
Another potential spot.
Town of Yacuambi
Just outside the town, owners of this site tried to convince me to dredge on their property
When I said the river is too fast .
Their response - no problem we will change river course. They started doing just that but in the end the task was to too ambitious.
Finally the site was chosen. This is the site where excavator and the wash plant got flooded just a few weeks earlier. They lost ~ 1 kg of gold. Huge loss. They had another go later in the year and this time they excavated ~0.8 Kg.
My dredge on the way to its final destination.
... and ready for work.
Every morning we had to cross the river in this vehicle - not bad many tourists pay money for this privilege.
... and the work commenced.
This proved to be very good site providing the water was sufficiently clear.
Mauricio my best diver. He happened to be son of the concession owner.
I used many divers. The diver is the difference between success and the failure. This is hard and dangerous profession. Many divers got killed or hurt by caving boulders. Normally, diver's share is 30% percent gross. This is another example why my ex partners Jack and Stan Girst had no idea about the proposed venture.
Sutarday - no school. Some local kids joined in.
The site was very promising, Only problem, illegal excavators working up the river making the work often impossible..
Local lady is bringing our lunch.
The dredge was working really well. We hardly lost any gold.
And this is what is all about.
We were getting close to the festive season. The summer season was nearly finished. We had more and more rain. Often the river level was too high for work. Regardless, I still kept my dredge in the water.
End of November Guadalupe day celebration
All heading towards town hall at the center.
.... and after the sunset.
Locals serving fast food
At first; official opening speech and later the band played a lot of Cumbias - very popular in Ecuador
There was customary miss Guadalupe competition with $5000 price money.
Girls had to present some set routines. Here food offering.
And the guys drunk a lot of bear. Nearly all bear in SA is very good but this Ecuadorian Pilsner is my favorite.
Enrique in heaven.
Local made grog was served freely
Celebrating with my divers Mauricio and Gringo.
Finally I had to repair my bike. I wasn't vigilant enough to check my oil level during my trip. Progressively my bike was burning more and more oil. I took my bike to workshop in Zamora only 35 km away.
Some final touches by Michael
I had cylinder with piston replaced. It took about a week and cost me $500. Michael knows KLR really well. He services all police motorcycles in the district. KLR 650's are in Ecuadorian Police fleet. If anyone has misfortune in this part of the world Michael's workshop is a good option.
All ready to go says Michael.
A few more weeks passed and Christmas time arrived. Ecuadorians are dedicated Christian Catholics.
Christmas celebration with some flavor from the past.
Very characteristic men attire: short black pants, white shirt, black rounded hat and black polished shoes.
People gathered from neighboring villages
Games were organized for children
Some dancing in the middle of the day.
And don't forget the bear. It is pretty hot after all.
At the end of the day all packed up and went back to their villages.
Ecuadorians have customary dinner on Christmas Eve.
I was lucky to be invited by Angel and his his family.
Soon, New Year arrived - not as celebrated as in the West. Rather quiet family affair with some dancing.
On the new Year Eve custom worth to note. People making dolls of better known village personalities. Later on, there is competition to choose the best one for the year.
Here Angel is checking his impersonation.
The dredging season was coming to a close. Wet season was settling in. Less and less days suited for dredging. My girlfriend Maria was coming from Colombia to visit me here in Guadalupe. More in my next blog.
For the record, I just recommenced my journey. I am writing
this post while in Peru. More is coming.
Que bueno saber de tí.... que pena lo que paso con tus "amigos"....... Sigue adelante amigo..... un abrazo
ReplyDeleteJUAN FERNANDO
desde Ibarra
DeleteGran aventura mi amigo. Ahora estoy experto como buscar oro en Ecuador :))
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