Ecuador - The border to Amazon.

The border crossing between Colombia and Ecuador was easy, no hassles. In fact all border crossings until now were good except for Guatemala - Honduras where Honduras official wanted to get a few extra bucks on top of his salary (nothing major) and Costa Rica - Panama where on the Panama’s side officials forgot to stamp my passport. Either way, I must be very lucky or the service has improved.

After crossing the border my next stop was Ibarra.

I had problems to find hostel with parking lot for my motorcycle. I went through the centre several times without the success. I nearly gave in. While I stopped at the street lights another motorcyclist started chatting to me. I explained I am looking for the hotel with parking for my motorcycle. The rider was Renato, the president of local L.A.M.A motorcycle club.
To cut the story short it is hard to find hostel with parking in Ibarra. The tourism didn’t catch on there yet. The good news, another L.A.M.A. member can help me with the accommodation. Juan offered me, to stay in his house. I gladly accepted. Juan’s wife and his son were away in Quito for the weekend. 

Juan runs Pizzeria nearby.

The next morning after the breakfast we went for a ride.

This is the thinest steak I had in my life, quite tasty though ........

......we went for a ride around Ibarra.

Firstly we visited Cotacachi, famous for its colonial buildings and leather products.

Cotacachi main plaza.

Then, we went to the Cuicocha crater lake.

Then we visited craft markets in Otavalo.

Otavalo main plaza.

Followed by Peguche waterfall.

I was here.

Juan wanted to show me hot springs in Chachimbiro but it was getting late. He had to get back to his Pizzeria restaurant. Nerveless, we had enough time to get my rear tire replaced. Thanks to Juan's connections I got very good deal on Pirelli MT60 for only $115. I learned that Colombia is far better place for tyres and spare parts in general. Good thing to know for the future. The next day a had to move on but not before Juan organized contact for me in Quito.

After arrival I should have gone to agreed shopping centre and call Carlos to collect me. Carlos is L.A.M.A. president in Quito. Somehow I managed to erase coordinates in my GPS. When I got to Quito I stopped at the first shopping centre I found and rang Carlos. Shortly after the call while I was walking back to my bike someone yelled at me 'am I the Australian rider who just came from Ibarra'. It was Javier whom Carlos rang after I contacted him. Javier and his family were shopping at the exact shopping centre I stopped. He spotted my bike in the car park. Lucky me.

Carlos, Javier and me.

Thanks to Carlos and his wife hospitality I stayed in their house during my stay in Quito.

Carlos and his wife has great passion for motorcycles. Carlos often hosts motorcyclists coming to Quito. There was a large group coming soon from Venezuela. The next day Carlos helped me to purchase air ticket to Galapagos Islands.

Later on, we visited Harley shop where I received itinerary for my further stay in Ecuador.

In the afternoon I visited old Quito

You can't be mistaken. I am in South America.

Less then 10 years ago, Quito's old town was no go zone for tourists. Full of shady characters and drug dealers. Just before Miss Universe Beauty Pageant in 2004 the old town received the face lift. Since then it is safe and full of tourists.

The president's palace to the left.

The following day we visited Mitad del Mundo. La Mitad del Mundo is the place where scientist Charles-Marie de La Condamine made the measurements in 1736  to show the exact location of the equator. 

But first I had my oil changed. 

We visited Pululahua old volcano crater first.

..... and then La Mitad del Mundo

Charm and Carlos’s crafty talking got our motorcycles here.

My motorcycle is in very exclusive club allowed inside the complex. All cars and motorcycles must park in the designated car park just before the entrance. I have never heard about anybody allowed inside the complex.

After return to Quito we had dinner and the coffee.

My favourite coffee place in Colombia and Ecuador.

 And in the afternoon we visited the old Quito .......

Me and Carlos are drinking some traditional drink for this area. I don't remember the name.

Checking it out how is made.

This lady is selling sweets and cigarettes.

Presidential palace to the left at night.

 ...... later on we visitted Zona Rosa the entertaiment area in Quito....

.....where we met other riders from USA, Canada and Australia. Carlos certainly enjoys it.

Some heated debate between one American and three Australians.

I couldn't miss this opportunity.

I had to move on. My next stop Latacunga with Quilotoa volcano and  Cotopaxi the highest active volcano in the world. The distance between Quito and Latacunga is only 80km. I arrived there early and wanted to have a coffee. I couldn’t find a better place. The restaurant owner’s son worked for years in tourist industry as a guide. Just recently he retired due to health issues. Initially, I wanted to stay in Latacunga and visit both national parks from there. Thanks to Jorge's advice I decided to leave my luggage at his restaurant and continue my ride on lightly loaded bike.

Jorge y Yo in front of his restaurant.

After getting all the necessary info I am on my way to Quilotoa.

I was slowly climbing up.

I was watching my GPS and the altimeter.

 The altimeter was climbing up fast.

When I reached Quilotoa I registered 4040 meters.

  I walked to the crater's rim. The first view of the lake stunned me. I wasn't prepared for this.

The water in this light was emerald and flat as a glass.

In the late afternoon sun.

In Quilotoa there are a lot of hostels, most of them were empty. 

I got this nice cosy room with the fireplace, including supper and breakfast for $10.

For hardcore travellers there is a possibility to camp near the crater but the mornings are extremely cold. For this price why would you do it anyway, nerveless I met someone in the morning doing just that.

My motorcycle had gentle treatment as well.

The next morning before the breakfast I set for a walk around the crater's rim. The crater is 3km in diameter. At first I went to the left but sun position suggested I should have gone other way arround.

The air at this elevation was crystal clear.

This lady posed for the picture.

The colour of the water kept changing with the sun position.

There were households all around the rim.

This lady does her washing as always been done.

Lined up for the picture.

This lady goes to town to get water.

... the colour just keeps changing.

Some domestic animals.

After the breakfast I continued my ride toward Cotopaxi National Park.

.....passing some traditional villages.

This make me feel like I am back at home - eucalyptus trees.

..... and some more modern villages.

The landscape was breathtaking.

Finally dirt road changed to bitumen.

Still high in the mountains.

When I reached Pan-American hwy I was hungry and ready for dinner. I stopped at first roadside restaurant with ‘cheap’ written all over it. I got a quarter of the chicken the size of the turkey but so salty and tough, it was nearly impossible to swallow, but hey, I was hungry.

After some searching for the entry to the Cotopaxi National Park (the signs are not very clear) I reached the gate by the mid afternoon. I received nasty shock. For some strange reasons, motorcycles are not allowed inside the national park, only cars and buses. It was too late for a bus. I decided to ride back to Latacunga. Apparently this new rule ‘no motorcycles’ was introduced quite recently. Some official came to conclusion that motorcycles destroy the road. I always thought there is other way around; four wheel vehicles like cars and buses do more damage. 

Unlike Colombia, Ecuador doesn't have many motorcycles. Car drivers rule the road. There is not even a touch of courtesy towards motorcyclist. They will race you or worse cut you off on every opportunity. When Jorge learned about my misfortune he offered to drive me to Cotopaxi and be my guide.

We set off 9 o’clock the next morning. The weather didn’t look good. Drizzle and overcast. Jorge assured me, this can change any minute and he was right.

Our destination - the highest active volcano in the world Cotopaxi - altitude 5897m

Our first stop Laguna Limpiopunge

We reached the car park at the altitude of 4500 m.

We started to climb. It was really cold and windy.

We reached second shelter at 4800m were we had customary coca leave tee.

Jorge couldn't forget about his mobile.

And finally we reached the snowline at the altitude around 5000m.

The volcano being very active is constantly monitored by number of sensors placed all around the mountain.

It is possible to walk right to the top. As a guide, Jorge made this trip many times but this is two day expedition and it requires special gear. The costs around $300 - maybe another time.

We got back to Latacunga in the early afternoon. It was Friday. Jorge works as a manager for the  most popular disco in town. It was fun to watch the preparations to the venue.  

The next day I left Latacunga and the mountains. I moved towards Amazon. It started overcast and drizzly but when I got to the lower elevation the weather improved.

Firstly I visitted thermal pools in Papallacta.

The water is hot and crystal clear, no minerals. Papallacta is located high in the Andes, at the elevation of 3300 m. The outside temperature was only 12 degree Celsius.

The road was new with excellent surface. Sometimes the bridge wasn't ready just yet.

The scenery changed to be more tropical.

I was more then happy with the return to warmer climate. After stopover in Baeza I continued my ride towards Misahualli. Firstly, I visited the Jumandy caves, just before Tena.

This guy was very couriers about my gear.

The was a hotel and swimming pool with the playground at the cave's entrance. 

You can have barbecue there.

......including these little beauties. I said I am not hungry, maybe another day.

The cave was much different I visited so far. A lot of mud.

I was told to take a plunge into this water hole. The water was rushing up to keep me afloat.

The view after I exited the cave.

I was the first one to leave the cave. At the entrance I saw large black snake. I wasn't fast enough to make a picture. I was told later, this wasn't poisonous species...... No problem, I am from Australia. We have 9 out 10 the most deadly snakes in the world.

No problem taking picture of this beautiful flower.

I was encouraged to stay in this hostel but I continued on. It was still too early.

Just before I reached Misahualli I stopped at the waterfalls. I was told I have to walk through the jungle for about 25 minutes to reach them. This is private land and there was an entry fee - only $2. About a year ago all the entry fees to national parks in Ecuador were removed. The only exception, Galapagos NP, where the entry fee for foreigners was reduced from $150 to $100.

The entry and the restaurant.

Adjacent, there was swimming hole, very popular with locals.

The water was cold and crystal clear.

The river cut deep in to the bedrock.

.... and the waterfall.

There was time to move back. There was storm on the horizon. I was warned the creek will fill up very quickly.

The track most of the time was very muddy and slippery.

I passed a lot of beautiful tropical flowers.

..... and some tropical fruits.

Misahualli is a nice little jungle town, transforming as we speak with a lot roadwork and constructions going on. It serves as gateway for tourists wanting to visit jungle. There are several tourist agencies in town.

The plaza overlooking the river.

This town is known for monkeys playing on the beach and stealing stuff from tourists.

Initially, I was going to stay there for the night. I found the only motorcycle friendly hotel and was ready to settle in until the hotel's owner decided to jack up the price. He said I am on the motorcycle and will be using his garage. The difference was only a few bucks but this really put me off. I decided to continue my ride to Puyo about 80km away. It is a pity. I really liked this town.