Venezuela Part 1 - The country with the cheapest gasoline in the world.

After we separated from Stefan we continued to Venezuelan Border. On arrival, we found Migration Office closed. Fortunately friendly border official opened it just for us. He appeared to know what stamps to use but it took him very very long time. It was obvious this wasn’t his usual job. We were granted three weeks permit for our bikes. We have to return to Colombia before the 12th of December. We should have asked for more time.

Only us to serve.

The God is overlooking everything.

Another border official advised us about road block only few kilometers down the road. First we filled our tanks with cheap Venezuelan fuel. The are no fuel stations close to the border. This is to stop illegal fuel smuggling.

The method for fuel pumping hasn't changed. We had to buy a minimum 50l drum.
We shared it between 3 bikes, so no problems.

Most cars, close to border are old American fuel guzzlers in all stages of disrepair but hey, fuel in Venezuela is cheap. Really cheap.

We shortly hit the road block. This guy looks pretty determined not to let us through.

We were told by military, we are not going anywhere. We have to camp right here or go back. It took some perseverance and few warm words to road block leader before they let us through.

We are on the way again.

We passed an area where many farmers were selling this plant on the side of the road. ?????? 

We arrived in Maracaibo late at night. Hostel recommended in Tim’s travel guide was closed down. We needed to find a hotel. We soon learned, Venezuela could be relatively expensive country.
Hotels we found were over our budget. Finally we found something acceptable with good security for our bikes.

The next morning we hit the road again. Our plan was to go along the coast and then take a ferry to Margarita Island.

Crossing the bridge over Maracaibo lake.

Now we were far enough from the border. We found first operational gasoline station

Priced paid for 16l of gas was 1.12 bolivar. There is 8 bolivars to a dollars so less then 1cent for 1l of fuel - not bad. Not bad indeed.

Venezuela is not the cheapest country in South America to travel.  Except for fuel of course. To make travel cheaper you must bring American dollars or Euros. I mean hard cash not your card. Venezuela has very high inflation. Most products are imported and expensive. At the time we could exchange US dollars on the black market at the rate 8 bolivars to one US dollar. In couple weeks of time, the rate changed to 8.3 to 1.

Official rate set by Chavez was 4.3 to 1 and this what you get when you draw money from ATM. So,  you need hard cash. Adrian and Tim were prepared. Me, that another story. To my excuse,  initially I wasn’t planning to visit Venezuela. Fortunately Adrian helped me. He lent me some US dollars for day to day expenses. For the rest I used my Paypal account.

As usual we favored back roads against main highways. The trade off - fallen tree.

The second night we camped on the beach. 

This view from the highway made us determined to camp on this beach

And here we go - perfect spot.

......with cows watching us intruders the next morning.

While riding on very busy highway I got my first puncture in Venezuela. I was in the middle lane. It took me a couple hundreds meters before I could stop. The inner tube got completely destroyed.

That day we reached Puerto Colombia. Last 24 km we rode through Henry Pitier National Park. This was the most amazing stretch of road so far in Venezuela. Very tight corners well suited to our bikes.

Pressing hard...

And amazing views.

Puerto Colombia is a fishing village. Now days it has become very popular tourist destination for locals. 

Fishing boats were moored in the river, for protection from swell.

The beach is just round the corner.

In the early days they had to fight off pirates.

Some Venezuelan graffiti right on the water front.

Old colonial houses - very well maintained. A lot of hostels and small hotels catered for tourists.

Venice Venezuelan style.

We had to cross this river, to get to our camping spot.

We parked our bikes in front of police station and pitched our tents under the palms, close to the beach.

We loved this place so much we stayed an extra night.

Beautiful beach with white clean sand.

Near the rocks the was a nice spot for snorkeling.

Beach was full of this little creatures.

View from the opposite side.

Some people just don’t believe in bug sprays. For the record these are Adrian’s legs.

I slept in my hammock. I woke up at night feeling, someone is kissing me. To my surprise, this wasn’t a beautiful woman, instead local dog wanted to give me some affection. These are trade offs if you hang your hammock to low.

This guy is 57 years old. He effortlessly went up this 12m palm to collect some coconuts. He sells them to the tourists on the beach. We bought a couple too.

He doesn't use any ropes; just bare hands and bare feet.

......and how he does it.

He cuts open coconuts we bought from him.

The next destination: Puerto La Cruz. The gate away port to Margarita Island. Margarita Island is Venezuelan prime holiday destination and duty free zone.

On one of the corners, I suddenly lost traction. I slid across the bitumen. Fortunately there was no incoming traffic. The car stopped and the driver helped me to right up my heavy loaded bike. I was OK,  despite my relatively high speed, about 70 km per hour. My protective gear proved itself again.

A few hundred meters further I spotted Adrian. He was standing next to his fallen bike. He suffered a few bruises and small burn to his waist. Nothing too serious. He was very lucky too.

Tim always ready to record the action.

We both hit oil slick. It looks like someone blew up his engine spilling a lot of oil on the road.

While still in shock a local farmer living nearby approached us. He offered water and bananas. We wanted to pay but he refused to take any money. World is beautiful, full of good and kind people.

We continued to our next camp site.

We woke up early in the morning and continued to Puerto La Cruz, only about 45 minutes away. Ferry tickets to Margarita Island were reasonable prized but we were short on dollars and decided to miss Margarita Island.

We followed the coastline south. The scenery was breathtaking.

We passed several beautiful beaches. We decided to have a rest at Playa Colorado.

The sand is tinted red, hence Playa Colorado.

These boats were used for joy rides by locals.

After Playa Colorado we had more magnificent views and some spectacular beaches.

We stopped here just for lunch but decided to camp overnight.

I slept in my hammock. At night some noises woke me  up. It was large crab. The beggar, took me for a food pinching my bottom. Again I set my hammock too low.

....and we continued the next morning.

We were on the way to Bolivar. We wanted to catch plain to Canaima. Canaima is gateway to Angel Falls. The highest uninterrupted waterfall in the world measuring 979 m. Another place in Venezuela I wanted to see was Roraima or in English The Lost World.  I suggested this to Adrian and Tim. This story in my next blog.

First Cueva Del Guacharo. After seeing so many nice caves in Australia and Europe this cave was a bit disappointing . Very nice location though. We were not allowed to use flashes, so no photos inside the cave.

This cave is very popular with locals. Constant flow of tourists.

The cave entrance.

We stopped  in one of the villages to have meal. It was getting pretty late. We needed place to sleep. We asked the restaurant owner for place to camp. He let us sleep in the garage of his unfinished house. 

Local kids having  some fun.

It was pretty hot. we decided to sleep on top of the roof. 

We had some company.

Next day - Bolivar city. Adrian got a bit relaxed and took the wrong turn. We rode to Bolivar via Guayana city, an additional 200km. We crossed Orinoco river on the newly finished very  impressive bridge.

We arrived at Bolivar airport. We wanted to find an agency organizing trips to Angel Falls. We found trip operator who could store our bikes and he offered free hostel during our stay. He could organize trip to The Lost World too.

I didn't have sufficient funds in US dollars. Fortunately I had an option to pay with my Paypal account. Cost, for 3 day trip to Angel Falls was $US300. This included flight from Bolivar to Canaima and back in six seater Cessna.
We learned later it is possible to cut some costs by flying from Guyana instead of Bolivar. Guyana airport flies  larger aircrafts cutting the cost nearly in half. Secondly we learned, it is possible to book the trip directly with the guide after arrival in Canaima airport. This was my original plan but Adrian and Tim were on the tight schedule and they preferred to have everything organized through the agent.

Just before we left for Canaima I was struck with horrible news. I just got a message from Steven one of two Canadian motorcyclist I traveled through Costa Rica and Panama. His mate Andrew passed away in Ecuador only a week ago. Pass Quito he got involved in accident. He slid, fell and got hit by truck. To die in any age it is terrible but to loose your life so young is beyond the belief. You were great mate Andrew. The memories will stay for ever. Rest in peace my friend.

We woke up early in the morning and after breakfast we got transferred to the airport.

Tim is making sure all is OK.

Bolivar airport.

.......and mighty Orinoco river at the distance.

The flight took about two hours and we were greeted with these magnificent views.

Time to land.

Cessna 6 seater

The Canaima airport.

After arrival, we had to wait for couple more hours. More planes arrived and more tourists joined our group. After dinner, we boarded this trailer and were towed away by tractor to waiting longboats.

The longboats

Our trip up the river took about 5 hours. Sometimes it felt like we were on water rafting expedition. We arrived late, in pitch dark.

Some photos before we left.

I was here.

We continued up the river for about 5 hours.

Some river rapids were too dangerous to cross. We had to walk around them.

......and picked up later.

Adrian and Tim seem pretty relaxed.

Our sleeping quarters in the middle of the jungle.

Next morning, after our breakfast, we walked to the waterfalls.

We were greeted with this magnificent view from our camp site.

We had to cross this river first. The water was crystal clear, but tinted brown from decaying leaves and bark.

.....and walked through the jungle for about 1.5 hours.

And finally the view.

I was here.

View to the right of Salto Angel.

Time to return to our camp. 

Our guides were local Indians, one of them in his traditional clothing or lack of it.

Again view from our camp. Before we left we had a swim in the river. 

.

The same day, back to Canaima

And last view of majestic Angel Falls

Some rapids we found on the way.

The river is called Rio Negro and it joins the mighty Orinoco river.

Local kids fishing.

Only 100m from our hostel we had this magnificent view.

Following day we went to Salto El Sapo waterfalls.

Our group in full glory in front of Salto El Sapo entry.

Salto El Sapo.

We walked behind the waterfall.

And were greeted with this rainbow on the other side.

We walked behind this wall of water.

The rainbow in full glory.

I was here.

View from the top.

The same day we flew back to Bolivar..

This time, Adrian in commanding seat. Pity we had only two flights.  

More magnificent views of the jungle.

It was the end of the wet season in Venezuela. The water level was high.

Next Roraima - The Lost World