Crossing Copper Canyon - Choix to Batopilas

Just before I rode my bike on to the ferry I met Arthur an Israeli rider on Honda SR650L.
His destination like mine is Tierra de Fuego in Argentina. He wanted to ride Copper Canyon too, so we decided to do it together. My original plan was to go around the canyon clockwise and enter the canyon as most riders do from Creel. This would add extra 850 km to our trip. Arthur wanted to cross the Canyon from Choix to Batopilas. Right through the middle. 

Riding on to the ferry

The crossing in summer, according to some Advrider forum members could be very difficult and was discouraged especially on the heavy loaded bike like mine. Arthur is travelling light and his Honda SR650L is much better suited to this type off riding.

I didn’t need too much encouragement from Arthur. After all this is an adventure of a lifetime not likely to be repeated.

Ferry trip lasted about 7 hours. We got to Topolabamba late night about 10pm. The trip finished pretty funny. After arriving at the port all passengers queued at the exit. First to leave were passengers with no motor vehicles and the second us passengers with vehicles. This was very large ferry with lots of passengers and trucks.  The information was pretty sketchy. None could give us a straight answer. We waited, checked the status, went to the restaurant , checked again. Nothing seems to be moving. After some time ship's steward appeared with the question 'why you are not leaving'. We hurried to the exit and to the level 2 where our bikes lived for the duration of the journey.
Big surprise, the ship was abandoned. No sign of trucks or passengers. Everything seem to happened in the blink of the eye. Anyway, that the way we felt.  

We left the ferry and started looking for some accommodation. In Topolabamba all hotels were full. We continued on the highway towards Los Mochis. We came across Popeye hotel. It looked pretty nice, one of those which are paid per hour. Very popular in Mexico. Usually giving us riders very good value and the best possible security. For privacy for its customers every room has its own garage and the hotel is hidden behind tall wall.

Complete with dancing pole in the middle.

We woke up early and set off for our canyon adventure. First Choix and then we tried to find the way leading to Batopilas.

Arthur heaving breakfast - lamb, goat who knows.

On the way to Choix.

We had maps and two GPSs but this didn’t help much. All roads and tracks in the canyon are pretty sketchy. We needed some local knowledge. We asked many, always having a different answer,
It became very frustrating in the end. We had to backtrack several tracks. It appeared, Batopilas from this site of the canyon is so remote that many locals couldn’t comprehend it.
Finally we got the directions and started to make some progress.

Deflating tires and getting ready for off road. For me 17 PSI front and 18 PSI rear.

 You have to be very careful with these guys.

First night we spent at the altitude of 1200m. We had to find camp quickly because storm was approaching fast. We found an unused track and we set up the camp. To our surprise, the next morning we learned this was an access road to one of the smaller villages.  Several people and donkeys passed through our camp in the morning. L

This track was so rough it was very hard to find any level spot for tent. My tent was on such a angle that velcro would help me nicely just to stay on my sleeping pad.

 View from our campsite

The next morning  we back on the main road. 

 Arthur feeling light

 This road is just to smooth

Following the main track was a big mistake. We end up at the mine site's gate.. Later we learned it was gold mine in El Sauzal. 

At the gate guards were very helpful. They said we need to cross the river. This time of the year the crossing is not possible. Then again, they looked at us, we must have looked very professional, looked again and contacted their office. They announced, they will let us through but we must wait for the convoy - no problem. We were escorted through the mine to the gate on the other side and then we continued down to the river.

This is actually on the other site of the mine. Sorry no pics on the entry - too confused.

We passed the gate and went down towards the river on the very rough and steep track.

What next

Let's check it out

The river was flowing so fast I wasn't able to cross it to the other side. We noticed the water was dropping.  It dropped about 20cm in an hour. We decided to camp on the bank and possibly attempt the crossing the next day. Arthur went back to get some provisions and I with my heavy loaded bike decided  to wait. The road trough the mine was very steep and rough.

While waiting for Arthur I met some locals and learned that to get to Batopilas we would have to make two more crossings, possibly more difficult than this one. Situation was clear – no crossing tomorrow.  We camped and the next morning we backtracked.

Our dinner for tonight

Just kidding. Guards at the gate kept it as pet.

Our camp by the river

To cut the long story short we should have turn right after the bridge crossing in Tubares. The turn off is very insignificant and very easy to miss. Going other way around from Batopilas to Choix, wouldn't be a problem. You can't miss it.

The next morning, we crossed the mine again following the escort. We found turn off in Tubares and continued very rough track to Batopilas.

 Getting some local knowledge - hand drawn map.

 The missing link. Newly build bridge.

The track was much tougher but very spectacular.

This KLR is really tough.

Some more spectacular views before we reached Batopilas.

 Arthur checking our bearings.

And going to the sunset.

We arrived in Batopilas late afternoon, very tired. Me from falling and keeping this big heavy bike up and Arthur from helping me to right it up. Batopilas is an old silver mine town.

We stayed at hotel Juanitas

We rode our bikes through the lobby.

 To the very pretty courtyard. Which became our home for the next two days.

We stayed in Batopilas for couple of nights just to recover and relax. Nice and tidy town. No other riders, only us. In fact we didn’t meet any rider during the whole trip through the canyon. After two days relaxing and some maintenance to our bikes we were ready for the last section: Batopilas to bitumen and Guachochi where we wanted to visit Sinfarosa Mirador.

Arthur having some fun.

Here we decided to have coffee brake and taste some good coffee Arthur brought from Israel.

Back on the tarmac.

To finalize it; this ride was a great fun. It took us longer than it should but no regrets we had more off road riding and more spectacular views. This ride can be done at any time of the year thanks to this new bridge. The track trough mine can only be attempted in winter when water is low.

The temperature in the valleys and Batopilas were on average 37 degree Celsius and humid. On the tops pleasant 30 degree Celsius. I personally found it OK, though hot when stationary when in full gear. Very pleasant on the move. 

Some tracks were pretty tough for my heavy loaded KLR but I had great fun and I am very glad I did it. Thanks Arthur for giving me a push. J

At the moment I am in Acapulco. Great fun city. Stay tuned.