Friday 25 May 2012

Ecuador - Puyo to Riobamba.

After spending one night in Puyo my next destination was Banos. Again, I had to ride up into the mountains.


Banos is only at the elevation of 1815 meters with nice mild climate through the year, known for its hot thermal pools and adventure sports. The road to Banos passes several scenic waterfalls in fact the road is called the Road of Waterfalls.

The 1st waterfall.

I had to walk down to the river.

I am half way.

It took 25 minutes to walk down.

Some flora on the way down.

.... and the waterfall - 110 meters high.

After the main waterfall there is the second smaller one.

The waterfall feeds this river.

There is a possibility to hire this cart in Banos but most of the people prefer to ride the bicycle. 

This road passes through several tunnels.

The second waterfall Pailon de Diablo - the largest.

Again, I had to walk down to the river.

The view was spectacular and added bonus the rainbow.

The sound of waterfall was deafening.

.....and the view behind the waterfall.

The water from the waterfall feeds the river.

I continued my ride towards Banos.

Hardly visible but there were settlements on both side of the river. The only access to the villages on the right side is by several cable cars sprang across the river.


The third waterfall.

There was a cable car used by locals to get to the other side of the canon. Cost $1.

...and the view of the river down below.

...... and the waterfalls.

More waterfalls.

I reached Banos in the early afternoon and found this nice hostel Mariane run by French owners. 

My bike safely parked in front of my room.

At that time I didn’t know about the restaurant. The restaurant was the main reason why I stayed in Banos for 3 extra nights. I decided to reschedule my flight to Galapagos. I didn’t want to rush just to make my flight. The décor in the gardens, my room and the restaurant made feel I was somewhere south of France. Great place to chill out for a few days.

The hotel's restaurant with some entertainment during the dinner.

......and the amazing food. All for around $8.

Banos main plaza.


This is part of the church above.

Selling pottery.

During my stay, Banos wasn't very busy but it can be, especially during the festival.

This man is making popular local sweet.

Banos is located deep in the valley, surrounded by mountains and the volcano.

View of Banos from high above.

Banos is popular with adventure sports. Here on offer jump from the bridge.

In Banos there are several hot thermal pools, hence it's name - Banos. 

This waterfall is right next to the thermal pools above.

I don't know anything about the ingredients but it must good .......

..... while so many people are using it. The stains are caused by water rich in calcium.

This is the second thermal bath I visited.

I made a couple rides around Banos. I wanted to see volcano's crater, not visible from the town below.

I am on my way.

... and the views.

The track was pretty rough in places. I couldn't see the crater. It was hidden in sick cloud.

On the second day I rode to the other side of the valley.

I climbed high above Banos unfortunately the volcano again was surrounded by clouds.

View of Banos.

I really liked Banos. I could stay there longer but I had to continue my ride towards Guayaquil or I never make my flight to Galapagos. I could ride directly to Riobamba, only about 60km away but I wanted to ride more in the Amazon.

  I tracked back to Puyo and continued to Macas.

More tunnels.

When I descended to lower elevation it became warmer and the scenery became more tropical.

The Amazon on the horizon.

When I descended to Amazon, all the houses there were made out of  timber - logical choice.


The jungle down below.

I stopped for a break. The view was spectacular. I saw some small kids hiding in the house.

I crossed several streams and small rivers.

From Macas I continued on this dirt road.

I was climbing higher and higher into the mountains.

I was going through Sangay National Park.

The vegetation was very tropical.

More rivers.... 

........with crystal clear water.

In the late afternoon sun.

It was getting late. I didn’t want sleep in the hotel I wanted to camp. My camping was long overdue. I was going through Sangay National Park and I could't miss this opportunity.


....and more breath taking views.

I considered several places for camping; old quarry, behind an old abanded household, under the forest watch tower. Nothing was quite right.

I finally I found spot I really liked. I camped in the river bed. Every hiking book would warn; while in the mountains never camp close to the river. To my excuse I made site assessment and had plan B in case of the emergency.

My camping spot.

View of the river on one side.

... and the jungle to the other side.

The next morning.


I am ready to continue my ride to Riobamba.

This the track is leading me back to the main road.

The road was really good with perfect surface. Traffic nearly non-existent.

It was cold but hate gloves.

And the views just kept coming.

The bridge wasn't ready just yet.

I passed several waterfalls. The water was crystal clear, fit to drink.

I was climbing higher and higher. The vegetation change to alpine.

I filled my water bottle right here.

I was at the elevation close to 4000m.

About midday I reached Atillo Lakes high in the mountains.The lakes are natural alpine lakes, no dams.

Lagunas de Atilla.

There are four isolated lakes.

Lakes are full of trout which make them a popular holiday destination for Ecuadorians.

Fishing for trout.

These sheep wanted to have a better view.


I continued through the village.

I stopped in this restaurant for lunch. Trout was the obvious choice for the day.

President of Ecuador once visited this mountain restaurant.

All this for $6 including the drink.


... and more traditional houses.

I continued my ride to Riobamba.

Local ladies in her traditional clothing.

I reached Riobamba mid afternoon. Riobamba to Guayaquil in my next blog, followed by Galapagos Islands.

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