Monday 22 August 2011

On the way to Acapulco

After leaving Batopilas and The Canyon we soon hit the tarmac.

The road was new and in excellent condition.

Typical countryside on the way.

We were heading towards Guachochi, gateway town to Sinforosa Canyon.

We reached Guachochi late afternoon. Hotel's owner offered us flight above the canyon but we decided this might be too risky in an old aircraft. 


The next morning we visited Sinforosa Canyon which is only 17km away.

...and Sinfarosa Mirador

From Sinfarosa Mirador there was a walking track down to the bottom of the canyon.
No tracks suited for motorbike. We decided to move on.

Late storm was approaching. We found suitable camping spot in the paddock on the side of the road

The next morning we continued towards Durango

It came a decision time. Arthur wanted to visit mountainous area north of Durango, known for its wild off road tracks. I thought, my bike and myself needed a break. Also, Arthur wanted to go through the middle and visit Mexico City. My plan was to go along the coast, so we parted about 100 km before Durango and promised to stay in touch along the way. 

We just realized, this was our first picture together.

We had an unforgettable adventure riding across the Canyon.

Time to separate....

Off Arthur goes...


....I am on my way too

New species of cactus appeared

 Typical scenery before Durango

Again, in Durango I opted for hotel paid by the hour

I could not complain about the bed.


Before I left, I had nasty surprise. My rear tire was down. This was an irony, last morning Arthur was complaining, his tire lost some air. We must be in sync. Fortunately I was in the hotel which had its own private garage. J




I decided to make up some time and pick up the pace. My luck didn't last long. Shortly after I left hotel in Durango my left foot peg started to feel a bit strange. I found mounting bolts got loose again. They were mangled and ready to shear off. It was obvious the bolts I am using are not strong enough. I removed center stand and decided to do without it. In Mexico I couldn't  find bolts with sufficient tensile strengths 10.9.

Ride between Durango and Mazatlan was very spectacular to say the least. In about 100 km the altitude dropped from 2800 m to nearly sea level. An excellent twisters, very well suited to my bike. The traffic wasn’t too bad either.

It was misty at the top. Not really good time for photos.

When I descended to lower altitude the scenery changed dramatically. It became very lash and tropical, a lot of fruit stalls appeared, mainly with mangoes. I paid 10 pesos for a mango in Baja now I could get them  for 2. No surprise, the road was virtually lined up with mango orchids.


 I reached Mazatlan late afternoon.


Mazatlan is a very nice city with several kilometre long seaside promenade and old town.
I learned from locals Spaniards used to station their ships in Mazatlan Bay and load them with silver and gold from nearby mines.






The Cathedral on the main square

....and rotunda 'thing' next to it. Very characteristic feature to all Mexican cities

Grand Promenade


After lunch I began my journey south. Very late start but wanted to make some mileage. It was getting dark and the storm was on the horizon. I stopped at one of the villages, can’t remember the name and asked shopkeeper for a hotel. The answer; nothing nearby.  I asked for place to camp. Nothing around either but I can stay in his place. He offered me his spare room. Thank you Román and family for your hospitality.


Typical road on the way to Puerto Vallarta.

 Many picturesque places on the way.






I finally reached beach in Puerto Vallarta.

Puerto Vallarta is a large tourist city. Nice old town with cobblestone streets and nice beaches. Lots of tourists but mainly locals.




Cobblestone streets.

No foreign tourists

Local kids heaving a great time

Just before leaving Vallarta

Leaving Vallarta was even more spectacular.


View from my overnight camp somewhere in the wild.

The next morning I continued to Acapulco. Again many beautiful places on the way. Mexicans likes to call this part of Mexican coast; The Mexican Riviera.


 







Happy local kids



Fish I had somewhere on the way.



After several days in the saddle I needed a brake. I read about Nexpa. Surf beach known as one of the best on the Mexican coast. I decided to stay there for a few days to recharge my 'batteries'.
I set up tent for my gear and spend three nights in the hammock – perfect. 

Nexpa

Local street - everything is low key. The way I like it.

Nexpa Beach - the view towards the restaurant.

And view from my hammock

Local pastime - waiting for the coconut arriving by sea.

I have one prepared by local old-timer.

I couldn't help myself.

... and perfect sunset.

Typical cabanas. There are some, more luxurious too.

A lot of surfers there but not as many as use to be. Many old timers coming year after year.
Mainly from USA




I met Roberto, young Mexican surfer who gave me a lesson in surfing. First time ever surfing. Always wanted to do it, since my arrival in Australia over 30 years ago. Sorry no pics too busy doing surfing bit. L


Roberto

Off to Acapulco and more beautiful scenery.




I spent my last night about 20 km before Acapulco. I was camping on the beach next to restaurant. Very safe place with Environmental Police in full amour having their shack only about 200m down the beach.  Restaurant's  lady owner allowed me to use their beach shower and toilet facilities - very handy.
Recommended spot for camping and an excellent jumping off point to Acapulco. The food in the restaurant was delicious too.

In Acapulco Roberto advised me to stay in the hotel instead of camping as I originally planned. 
I stayed in the center close to popular Caleta Beach. Nice hotel. I normally don’t count stars but this hotel had everything: pool with bar, perfect bay view and nice room with Cable TV, WiFi, Aircon and the fridge. The hotel name is Monte Carlo. All this for only 350 pesos. (under $30). I wanted hotel with internet. Without internet I could get similar room for around 200 pesos. 

View from my hotel's window

....and another one.

In Acapulco food is cheap. At the beach front restaurant the main course sets you back about 80 pesos (under $7). I had my dinner in small restaurant about 200m away from the beach for 55 pesos. The dinner included fish for main course, soup and soft drink. This is cheaper than in the rest of the Mexico. 

The bad publicity in western media did their job. The beaches are full but nearly all are locals. Hardly any westerners. I would say the ratio was 1000:1

Who said Acapulco is dangerous for tourists




I had my dinner in small restaurant just 200m from the beach - food was delicious.

 The police and army presence is very visible but this wasn’t intimidating for me. Acapulco’s tourist section feels safe. I never felt threatened. There are some suburbs which should be avoided. These suburbs are inland and way away from the tourist area. Acapulco is a very big and busy city these days.

Road leading towards La Quebrada.


I always wanted to see La Quebrada the Cliff Divers. Remember the movie with Elvis Presley - Acapulco?

The rock with two white altars visible on top from where La Quebrada jumps. 

This is where La Quebrada pray before each jump.

Another view towards La Quebrada

 and the spectacle begins:


They climb after each jump

 End then they jump.

La Quebrada jumpers

When leaving Acapulco, for the first time in Mexico, I was stopped by a crooked cop. He waved me from the right lane so he couldn't see my camera. A soon as he saw the camera mounted on my helmet, he waved me to carry on. :-)

I red many riders reported similar experiences. Now, I can confirm it, the camera trick really works.