Belize

My apology for picture quality. New camera is on its way. Picking it up in Guatemala City in a few days time.

I am on my way to Belize City. The road is not as good as in Mexico. I thought after leaving Mexico no more topes. Wishful thinking but at least not as many as in Mexico. In Belize former British Honduras spoken language is English. The population,  just over 300 000 mostly descendants from African slaves in the 17th century.

The battery is holding up well so my theory appear to be correct.

Firstly I wanted to visit the islands off Belize coast, especially Caye Caulker. I wanted to dive in the Blue Hole made famous by Jacque Cousteau all these years ago.

The Blue Hole is a Cenote under the sea. It is  300m in diameter and 135m deep.

Water taxis which operate between Belize City and the islands won’t take bike on board. I learned from Belize’s insurance broker, there is possibility to take the bike to the islands on the cargo boat but I need to go to the port. I received directions at the gas station and I was on my way. Sadly I missed the turn and got lost. At that time I didn’t know that my GPS works perfectly in Belize unlike in Mexico. I saw a man, I stopped and asked him for direction. He had these milky looking eyes. He immediately told me he is charging for his information. He called another guy who at that time was still inside the house and continued “where the F^%k are you from”. This became too hot for me.
I stepped on the accelerator and sped off. I could hear him behind me screaming “where the f^%k are you from”. After about 100m the traffic stopped. I was blocked by bus. The screaming got louder and louder. This guy was chasing me. Fortunately before he got to me I managed to get away just maneuvering between the cars. Before I got to the port I had to ask for direction a few more times.
I passed through area which made me more and more nervous. This time I was more careful who I ask directions. All this happened in broad daylight.  This was the first time I felt threatened in my entire trip. Finally I got to the port and found out, the last barge already left and I have to wait until tomorrow.

 Belize City center.

I had enough for the day. I didn’t want to look for any hotel in Belize City. I decided to ride on to Monkey Bay Sanctuary about 50 km away and regroup. Monkey Bay Sanctuary is very popular stopover with riders crossing Belize. Set in nice bushland very close to Belize zoo with very good facilities – recommended.

In the evening I went to restaurant called ‘Amigos’ just across the road. Most guests there spoke English with this broad American accent. I learned later, they are not tourists but locals living  in the area. All settled there many years ago.

I left my bike in Monkey Bay Sanctuary and took a bus to Belize City. Later on I took water taxi to Caye Caulker.

Caye Caulker island is very low key and full of backpackers. I finally could taste, I am in Caribbean.

Approaching the jetty at Caye Caulker. 

Welcome to Paradise.

The main street

All streets are unsealed

The 'Spit' popular drinking hole.

I booked into this hotel

and later I booked my diving trip to the Blue Hole. Cost for three dives 360 Belize dollars. About $AUD170. Not cheap but nothing is cheap in Belize.

On our way to the Blue Hole.

We passed the island were TV series "The Gilligan's Island" was taped.

 Finally on site 

The Blue Hole is a sinkhole which got covered with sea water after the Ice Age. We  dived to the depth of 45m. The visibility was excellent. We saw stalactites and a lot of sharks. Some only a few meters away.

Later, we stopped on one of the islands to have lunch.

 I found a coconut.

Later in the evening, we socializing  at "The Spit". 'Mattman' in the middle wasn't diving with us but he is part of establishment here and never far away from the action.

For three days, among other staff, he tried to sell me his CD..... he is a local reggae musician.

After having a great time at Caye Caulker there was time to move back to the mainland and collect my bike from Monkey Bay Sanctuary. On the last day on the island the weather deteriorated. It started to rain and kept raining for three more days. I decided to stay at  Monkey Bay Sanctuary until the weather will clear. 

I visited Belize zoo only about 3 km away. Normally I don’t visit zoos but this one is different. It has animals only native to Belize, all in large enclosures and natural settings. Most of the animals were either injured in the wild and brought to the zoo or orphans who lost their parents. Some are trouble animals which otherwise would be shot by farmers.

This Jaguar was born in the Zoo and wouldn't survive if set free.

This one probably would.

When weather cleared I went south along Hummingbird Hwy.

Next day I left Hummingbird Hwy and went off road, passing some Mayan villages

Some video clips from Hummingbird Hwy area:

           The Movie Clip

After two days I came back to Monkey Bay Resort. The following morning I rode toward Guatemala border and Tikal. Very easy border crossing, all it took was  about 30 minutes.

Chichen Itza Tulum and finally Belize.

At first I traveled along the coast and then turned inland toward Chichen Itza

More flamingos in lakes along the coast

Chichen Itza built by Maya civilization.

 A lot of them in Chichen Itza, guarding the ruins.

I met group of Polish tourists staying in Cancun. They had very knowledgeable guide. Among other info he gave very technical and graphic description how Mayan priests ripped heart out of the human body; bonus, all in Polish, my native language.

I stayed at Pyramid Inn hotel. I set my tent under the palapa.

Fantastic facility with large swimming pool only 15 meters away

I was looking forward to explore cenotes for which Yucatan peninsula is famous. The cenotes or in English sinkholes are collapsed or partially collapsed underground caves. There are thousands cenotes on the Yucatan peninsula.
After glacier resided about 20 000 years ago, water table rose, subsequently most of cenotes are flooded. Chichen Itza made a very good base to visit the area. 

This cenote you must visit around midday to have this spectacle.

Next on my way to Belize was resort town Cancun. This is the most touristy and commercialized place I have seen in Mexico to date. The type, where tourists are parachuted in and may never leave the resort during their entire stay.

I tried to find access to the beach but I couldn’t. All beach access was blocked with hotels and resorts. Not my type of town. I quickly moved on towards Playa de Carmen and Tulum. On the beach side the highway from Cancun to Playa de Carmen is lined up fence to fence with resorts. 100 km in total

After camping one night (well camouflaged) on the side of the road I arrived in Tulum. The beach is about 5 km away from town centre. Very pretty place lined up with cosy restaurants, beach cabanas and boutique hotels. I found small camping ground called Chavez were I spent two nights. 

Unfortunately during my stay my camera got stolen. From now on I had to rely on my backup camera which soon developed a fault. The right side of the image is out of focus. Only my iPhone left. I ordered a new camera. I will be pick it up in Guatemala City in a few weeks time.

Before leaving Mexico I planned to do some diving. While riding along Tulum beach I noticed small dive shop belonging to Mexdivers. I asked what dives they have on offer. Apparently, the sea was a bit rough recently hence the visibility is not the best. Instead I could do Cenote diving. Within one hour I was in the water. Fantastic experience. I booked another dive for the next day. I did four dives in total in three different locations.

If you have licence. I highly recommend. Many people snorkel but for full experience a dive is the way to go. 

Water was crystal clear but camera they used wasn't the best quality.

In this cenote salt and fresh water meets. The effect; very blurry vision and disorientation. 

Really strange feeling 

I left Tulum pretty late and thought I will get close to Belize border so I can cross it early the next morning.

Wishful thinking. First, I run out fuel about forty kilometers after I left Tulum. Pretty foolish, I thought I had full tank. Mexico is not the place to run out of fuel in the middle of nowhere. I  was about 30 km from the nearest petrol station. I tried to stop several cars but Mexicans, for obvious reasons are too afraid off to stop to strangers. After nearly an hour, some Samaritan finally stopped. I gave him 200 pesos and my 150 dollars worth flexible tank and waited.

Fortunately there are still honest people in this world. He even refused to accept any money for the trouble.

About 30 km later my rear tire got flat.. I knew, I should have changed it long before.  The tire was absolutely shot. Last 200m I had to push my bike with some local help to Llantera (tire repair shop). This was one of the hardest thing I have ever done for some time. The guy swapped the tire but the tube was completely destroyed. How lucky, I thought, I have another spare one. My enthusiasm didn’t last long. My spare tube got damaged during the trip and was un-repairable – great.
The only choice I had; repair old one. To fix it it took eight patches and 100 pesos with no guarantee is going to last to Chetumal only 70km away.

The guy was right, I had to stop around 40 km short of Chetumal. 

Not a bad place for emergency stopping. Camping next to the pool with nice view of the lake.

Next day I hired Taxi to Chetumal. I had to buy new tube. Whole process including repair took me most part of the day. It was too late for border crossing. I decided to stay one more night. In the evening I went to the village to buy some groceries.  More problems, my bike wouldn't start.

Charging system failed? Bad battery? New taxi trip to Chetumal?  Now what???

I push started the bike and noticed that the charging system works fine, must be the battery??? 

I pushed started it the next morning and rode to Chetumal. I searched for the moto-mechanic.

To cut the long story short, the mechanic diagnosed faulty regulator. To get one in I would have to wait for about a month and would cost me $300. They advised me, if I don’t want to wait, I should buy battery charger and re-charge my battery every day – great.  

It was obvious, they were not interested to help me and wanted to get rid off me. After paying 15 pesos about $1.2 for fuses mechanic blew up during testing, I left. 

Shortly after I couldn’t believe my luck, it appeared, the regulator was working fine. I believe what happened, when I had flat tire the day before, I discharged battery too deep trying to inflate punched tire. With battery completely discharged motorcycle charging system wasn't able to cope anymore. While in the workshop, the battery was fully recharged hence problem disappeared
It was too late for border crossing. Leaving for Belize tomorrow – huh!

My last night in Mexico I spent in the hotel right next door to border crossing. I met Belgian couple travelling in the opposite direction by car. They just crossed from Belize. They have been on the road for over 2 years, travelling all around the world, including Australia.

Trouble free crossing from Mexico to Belize.

On my way to Belize City. Typical savanna with palms unique to Belize only.

On the way to Yucatan

Next Tuxtla and highly regarded San Cristobal. I was way off course. The next two days I had to do a lot off riding. In one day I covered 650km - my record on this trip, most of the time negotiating with zillions of trucks and busses. Fortunately I had some nice rides too.

Mountain ride on Hwy 190 on the way to Tuxtla and San Cristobal:

Movie Clip

One of more 'interesting' places I stayed overnight when I run out of daylight. Next to the church in the middle of small village. I was star attraction the next morning.

Libre road from Tuxtla to San Cristobal is an excellent mountain ride going through some very traditional mountain communities.

 San Cristobal has character and charm.

 The streets were lined up with small restaurants and boutique shops

  

Local boys having a chat

Traditional skirt worn by local women

Late afternoon.

 Local Government building on the main square

 The Cathedral on the main square

For the first time in Mexico I met a lot of backpackers. I stayed in bike friendly hotel Virginia. No acrobatic skills needed to park safely your bike in this hotel.

as a bonus, really hot water and very good WiFi, all for 200 pesos(around $16.5)

I met Brazilian rider on his way from LA to Brazil. He claimed he crossed Darien Gap, virgin and  lawless strip of land between Panama and Colombia. He claimed he crossed it not ones but four time. Once on his pushbike?!?!...  I couldn't get more details, he left the next morning.

I booked trip to Sumidero Canyon. It traditionally starts from Chiapa De Corzo. Chiapa De Corzo an old town on the outskirts of Tuxtla. It serves as a gateway to Sumidero Canyon.

The rotunda on the main square is very unique, built of bricks at 1526.

Type of boat used on this tour

 The canyon has vertical walls which reach as high as 1000 meters

 A bit of a surprise - the crocodiles live in the river

We encountered a few waterfalls

It was hard to leave San Cristobal but after four days I had to move on.

The beauty to travel by motorcycle; on the way to Palenque I noticed turn off leading to Agua Azule waterfalls. I took the turn and it was well worth it.

I was here.

The water is rich in calcium.

Palenque an old Mayan city dated back to 100 BC. It fell around 800 AD. Very significant ruins set in the middle of the jungle with possibility to climb most of the structures.

On the way to Yucatan, just before Ciudad del Carmen I ran out of daytime. I stopped at the random village and asked for place to camp. As a result I camped inside roadside restaurant but not before I had a few drinks.

Omar restaurant owner, Ronaldo, the happy dude and Antonio

It was lakeside restaurant. The mosquitoes roamed here in the morning.

Finally my first sight of Caribbean Sea.

 

and the first dip

My rear tire was really bad. It nearly lost all its thread. I wanted to buy a replacement before I leave Mexico. Merida was the largest town. Not an easy task in Mexico. First, forget about off-road tires. All they have are road tires and the selection is very poor. They send me from one place to another in 40 degree heat. The streets in old Merida are narrow and the traffic is bad. Very hard to navigate. Most streets are one way.

Finally I found it. I needed a rest.  Preferable nice beach with palapas so I could stretch my hammock for a day or two. 

I found something even better. Place called Cocos Playa; 200m wide and a few kilometers long stretch of land with coconut palms right to the water edge. I found narrow track going to the beach and then made my own along the beach to stay out of sight - perfect.

Three days of living Robinson Crusoe style. I had plenty of time to practice my new skill, cracking coconuts, I learned earlier.

I arrived at my camp late afternoon

Picture perfect palms to stretch my hammock

Caribbean Sunset

and very early morning

When I run out food and had to move on. You can't live on coconuts forever. Next stop Chichen Itza.