Period from March to August 2013
Leaving Ecuador wasn't without the incident. I had to provide a letter from the lawyer stating; my motorcycle can be taken legally out of the country. This problem haunted me me for all my stay in Ecuador. When I applied for my 6 month visa, Customs gave me only 3 month permit for my motorcycle. Despite their obvious mistake they refused to rectify the problem. I applied for the extension twice; once in Cuenca and once in Loja but no success. Finally, I was forced to forge the permit just to stay out of trouble with Ecuadorian police.
It took less then two days crossing to Manizales. The weather was excellent and I knew road by heart.
Maria's Family house.
One weekend we visited Los Nevados National Park.
Nevado volcano is highly active. Last year during my stay in Manizales I witnessed eruption. The streets were covered with volcanic ash and the authorities issued warnings. They advised to wear masks and minimize outdoor activities.
We visited hot springs.
After the landslide hot pool was significantly reduced in size. There was no other visitors. We had the whole pool to ourselves. The water is extremely saturated with chemicals. It will sting your eyes if you are not careful.
After about 30 minutes in the pool we are done and ready to leave.
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On Easter brake we decided to go Medellin and visit nearby Guatape.
The weather was perfect; sunny and warm.
The ride between Manizales and Medellin is very picturesque; mountains, rivers and lush vegetation.
Earlier in a day we bought some fruits from roadside vendors. We stopped for a snack.
We crossed Cauca River.
La Pintada
Early afternoon we arrived in Medellin. Before we left Manizales I booked room in Black Sheep Hostel. I stayed there on my previous visit to Medellin and head great memories. I celebrated there my 2011 Christmas and the New Year. The Hostel is very well run and is very popular with backpackers visiting Medellin.
Black Sheep Hostel
Our itinerary in Medellin included unavoidable shopping....
No mistake here, we are in Colombia.....
We visited Parque Llera only few blocks away. Parque Llera = Zona Rosa the main entertainment area in Medellin.
And at night we went for a dance at one of the numerous clubs.
Time in Medellin nearly over. We are ready to leave for Guatape.
All ready...
On the way we stopped in this restaurant.
Restaurant was serving delicious pork and some rodent meat..
I am not very adventurous with my food I opted for pork despite Maria's assurance rodent is very tasty.
No comments.
We are approaching Guatape lakes.
Guatape Lakes are playground for rich and famous from Medellin; a lot of yachts and large mansions.
Famous rock "La Pena" in the distance. We are going to climb it in the next few days.
We visited reconstructed village.
The original village is flooded by lake.
We entered Guatape.
This was Easter Time. Guatape is very popular place with Colombians. The streets and hotels where full of tourists. We checked several hotels but none appeared to us. We were directed outside of town to checkout one of the hostels there.
The property was overlooking the lake. La Pena could be seen in the distance. We liked the place so much we decided to stay there right to the end of our holiday.
We visited nearby convent
Maria visited it a year earlier on horseback.
Next morning on the hostel's terrace.
This place was idyllic.
Later on we went to town for a walk and some shopping.
Guatape main Plaza
All building are well restored.
Each house is unique in style and color.
The following day we visited The Rock.
...over 200 meters high.
This was hard walk to the top.
.... but the view is worth it.
Maria del Carmen y Yo.
Maria couldn't resist the thrill walking beyond the safety fence.
.... and another one.
Some more views from our hostel balcony. This year water level was very low unlike on my previous visits to Guatape
Colombiana with Hawaiian flavour
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While in Manizales we made several trips into surrounding mountains.
While in Manizales we made several trips into surrounding mountains.
Manizales is known as Coffee Capital of the World. Here very typical coffee hacienda.
Around Manizales mountains are covered with coffee plantations
Coffee tree.
Later on, we visited Maria's family holiday house. Located near Palestina about one hour drive from Manizales.
Maria del Carmen with her sister.
After short stop we continued to Arauca.
Arauca
Arauca is located at much lower elevation than Manizales, at about 900 m. The climate is quite hot and humid.
Main Plaza
These jeeps are traditional means of transport in coffee region in Colombia
Despite being very early afternoon, restaurants and bars were full of people: dancing cumbia, drinking and generally heaving a great time. I was so impressed, I promised myself I must comeback one day and join the celebration. We couldn't stay there much longer. Maria had to go to work the next morning.
Arauca main street.
Another little town we visited was La Virginia. La Virginia is located close to Pereira and is very popular tourist destination.
One towns major attraction is the bridge, which saw a better days in the past.
The bridge divides town in half. Always full of traffic
There is a large sign at the entry warning not to ride a motorcycle but locals are ignoring it. I couldn't resist either.
I crossed the bridge both ways. The second time I had to walk my bike. Apparently there were cops on the other side waiting for unsuspected .....
The town is famous for its restaurants serving delicious fish.
Maria's house was only a short stroll away from El Cable - Zona Rosa for Manizales. Zona Rosa in Colombia is an entertainment area where majority of clubs, discos and restaurants are located. Every Friday and Saturday night El Cable is filled with people with only one purpose in mind - have a great time. I found Colombia is very unique. Colombians seem to enjoy life more and are more spontaneous. Nearly every village has at least one disco. I heard Brasil and Argentina may fall to this category too.
One of these memorable Friday nights
To avoid the crowds we got here pretty early about 8pm
About 10 pm you will be hard pushed to find sitting place.
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Maria wanted to visit Supia. Her father's hometown and the place where she spend a lot of time when she was a child. Roughly, Supia is way between Manizales and Medellin. Located at much lower altitude with very tropical and humid climate.
We were still about 10 km before Supia but we had to stop here to say hello to some Maria's relatives.
Machinery to compress sugar cane
Condensing sugar cane syrup.
.... and the final product.
Which is often sold on the roadside.
We stopped briefly in Supia and then continued just outside the town.
To this cottage where Maria's cousin looked after her elderly and sick mother.
We stayed there for the night.
Maria's cousin wanted to have go....
The next morning we went for walk.
Old lady family house, now rented out.
Maria's grandparents house, now deserted.
This exact place was Maria's playground when she was a child.
I really liked the place. The property is facing the river and the river is gold bearing. In fact the whole area is gold bearing with several gold mines in nearby proximity.
There are a lot fruit trees on the property: avocados, cacao, guanabana and more.
Guanabana fruit. Maria call guanabana: "The Queen of all fruits". Truly excellent in milkshakes.
Not a fruit but I wondered if these bees were producing honey but I wasn't to keen to find out.
The cacao tree.
Cacao fruits.
... and the cacao seeds dried in the open air.
Mentioning cacao always brought smile on the ladies faces. It appear in Colombia cacao is considered as sex aphrodisiac.
Later this morning we went for a ride toward Riosucio
Very scenic ride which in some way reminded me Guadalupe in Ecuador.
Houses in Ecuador were mostly build out off timber. Here, a lot brick houses, some older ones made out of clay.
We were riding along the river valley. Some small coffee plantation in the distance. Despite potentials land around Supia wasn't very popular with coffee. Maybe in the future.
Like in the coffee region jeeps are very common way of transport here.
More river views along the way.
The road was pretty rough with some sections of loose rocks and mud.
We were approaching Riosucio
But first we stopped here to visit Maria's relatives
Long lost relatives. We were greeted with dinner and later continued to Riosucio
Riosucio
Riosucio main Plaza
Very nice and tidy town.
Jeep is awaiting for more customers.
....and nearly all seats are taken
.... and off they go.
On our way back to Supia we visited little village San Lorenzo.
On arrival in San Lorenzo.
The village was very busy. It was Sunday and the market was in a full swing attracting people from the surrounding area.
In the late afternoon we fare-welled Maria's cousin and made our way back to Manizales.
We are approaching hills around Manizales.
The last 10 km before Manizales is very spectacular. In about 10 km the road climbs up about 1000m in perfect curves.
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Armenia, Manizales and Pereira are three main cities in Colombian so called Coffee Triangle or Zona Cafetera. There are many more cities in the triangle including: Salento, Quimbaya, Quindio, Finlandia, Montenegro.... We already visited Zona Cafetera many times before including Salento last year. I have never stayed on the actual coffee hacienda. There was an opportunity coming, Maria had long weekend approaching shortly. I don't normally book places in advance when practical, I treat this as a added adventure. On Saturday morning we left Manizales and travelled to Perreira, after quick lunch there we continued our ride towards Quimbaya.
Quimbaya Plaza
The dog in the center.
The town was full of tourists.
We considered to stay in Quimbaya for the night but it was still pretty early. We continued our ride towards Montenegro.
San Isidoro entrance.
After arrival, we were very pleased with our choice. Our Cabana below.
This is working hacienda - drying coffee in the process.
The next morning we went for walk around the property. To get to coffee plantation we had to cross the creek down below.
The whole mountain was covered with coffee trees.
Helpful hand..
The coffee was ripped. Ready for picking.
My contribution to this bag was only symbolic.
The property had magnificent swimming pool.
Maria always keen to get some suntan.
After great time on the hacienda we are ready to kick the road again. Maria have to go work the next morning.
Just outside San Isidro hacienda. This is a typical road in Coffee triangle, narrow but well maintained..
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I passed Cali five times on my way to Ecuadorian border but never actually visited it. We decided to visit Cali and Buenaventura - town with caribbean flavor on the pacific coast though.
Trivia - Colombia is the only country in South America bordering with two oceans Atlantic and the Pacific and to its north with Caribbean sea.
Ermita church
Sugar cane juice production
Cali is home to very large afro population.
Demonstration in South America and Colombia are very common.
Next Buenaventura. Small city Buenaventura has country's largest port handling nearly half of Colombian trade. Similar to Cali is home to large black population hence its caribbean flavor. Buenaventura is on the pacific coast and is popular with colombian holiday makers. The coast is overgrown with mangroves and it doesn't have nice beaches. Beaches can be reached by boat on nearby islands.
On the way to Buenaventura.
Typical house in the jungle.
On the outskirts of Buenaventura slums reappeared.
In general, population here is very poor and violent crime is big problem.
The city has distinct Caribbean flavor.
Locals having football match.
There is abundance of motorcycles here.
Streets are narrow and full of mercantile
Constant police presence is a reminder that Buenaventura is one of the most violent cities in Colombia.
Reminder, this is the largest port in Colombia.
The beach is not very inviting.
The terminal.....
....and the jetty is a gateway for boats to nearby islands for holidaymakers searching for nicer beaches.
I left Buenaventura early afternoon. On the way back to Manizales I wanted to visit Calimita lake.
One of the villages just outside Buenaventura specializes in smoked pork ribs and chorizo.
Very popular with track drivers.
Very popular with track drivers.
Both sides were lined up with stalls and restaurants. I couldn't pass it without tasting the produce - delicious.
Lake Calimita
In contrast to Buenaventura this place was inhabited with more fortunate. A lot of nice and well maintained properties.
Locals playing on the river feeding lake Calimita
A few more hours and I am on the outskirts of Manizales.
With its coffee fields.....
.... and spectacular views
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The terrain was fairly flat at this altitude.
Our destination was farmhouse finca LASierra. Maria often used to visit it on her holidays.
We past several haciendas on our way to finca LaSierra.
They had some visitors too.
We continued for about 20km.
Maria tried hard to remember the directions. It was many years since she visited the area for the last time.
Some spectacular views.
We had to backtrack a few times but in the end we could see the property just across the valley.
It took about 30 minutes to get to the gate.
Maria opened the gate or rather opening in the fence.
All done!
We entered the property ...
.....and followed rough track towards the farmhouse.
Farmhouse at the distance.
This is a working potato farm. I say, not an easy terrain for crops.
They had some cattle too,
Kids were awaiting us.
We got there pretty early so we had time to relax and later to investigate the farm.
Views from the farm were spectacular....
....in any direction
We had an option to stay there overnight. The room was waiting for us.
The kitchen
Childrens room.
Life on the farm.
The kids seam to be very happy and curious. They never left us. Following us everywhere.
... and the guard dog.
Playing with chicken.
We had a walk around the farm
...with some photo shots.
.....and again
...and again.
... and some more.
When we finished our walk the dinner was waiting for us.
Let's the picture do the talking. Anyway this was chicken, fried platano with rice and chicken soup.
Yo and our host.
She was managing this farm with her husband. Both originally from Manizales. She chose this isolated lifestyle a few years ago. She said she was happy especially for their children. Looking at them how happy they were I couldn't agree more.
Time to leave - from the prospective this was a bit rush decision. I wish we stayed there overnight.
On the way to the gate.
On the way to the gate I stall my bike on one of the steep ascents and my bike started to move backwards. I fell inventively. KLR doesn't have fuel injection and on the elevation abovo 4000m doesn't have a lot of power.
Last think you want is to stall you bike when going up on the steep gravel road. This picture doesn't show well the gradient.
With Maria's help I tried to right it up but in the end I had give up and I lay down overcamed with exhaustion. In Normal circumstances I could right it up just on my own even when fully loaded.
High elevation steep terrain and rocks made this task just about impossible.
In the end, after a few goes, we managed to make it vertical again and continued our ride back home.
In the distance Nevado volcano which erupted last year.
We past another picturesque farmhouse.
After arriving in Manizales and after short rest we were ready for another shot of salsa. Anyway this was the plan.
